Good for gawking

Last week I traded emails with a girl I know from journalism school. She started a blog, Who's that with Joy? It has lots of pics of celebs from her media days here in NYC. Check it out.

This ain't tropical

Temps in NYC were in the teens last week. One coping mechanism was going to Xicala, a little tapas bar near NoLita, on Wed. night with Amy. They have very yummy strawberry sangria, and a little Cuban band was playing. So for a couple of hours, we forgot we were in a frigid place.

Because it wasn't cold enough in NY we drove to Newfane, Vermont after work on Friday. I'm usually kinda fussy on the way up, but always happy once I'm there. VT is a very beautiful and special place. Rick cooked loads of delicious food, and everyone cozied up by the fire with wine.

I am not a muchacho

Got suckered into going out Thursday. Started off at Doc Holliday’s. Have always walked past but never gone in. Solid juke box with classic country & Sam Cooke, PBR tall boys, tater tots… obviously I have been missing out on this gem right by my apt. Also hit relatively new place 40C and went dancing at old fave Baraza.

Stopped by Flatiron Lounge for a drink after work Friday. Ordered glogg, one of their winter drinks. And believe me, all you need is one.

Sat. was a GastroSnobs outing; we went to Caracas, a Venezuelan restaurant in the 'hood. Yummy guac and plantain chips to start. Ordered two arepas: De Pabellon (beef, black beans, plantains and cheese) and La De Los Muchachos (chorizo, cheese, jalapenos and peppers). I love hot food, but the muchacho arepa was so spicy it kicked my ass.

Tuscan cowboys and deathly cocktails

Last night was the 1st 2007 installment of DOG (Dining Out Group). Met Robyn for a drink before dinner at Employees Only. This month Gail chose Maremma in the West Village. Solid choice, Gail! Everything was great & we licked our plates clean. Dug the grilled sausage appetizer (apparently the pigs are actually raised by the restaurant somewhere in upstate NY). Had a pasta called Moonshine (Fusilli in cheesy tomato sauce with bourbon) for my main course. The server inaccurately described it to me as "adult mac & cheese," but the dish was really good all the same.

After dinner, Gail & I went to check out a brand-new bar in my 'hood called Death & Co. When we arrived it was full, so the doorman took my cell phone #. We went to another place around the corner, and within a half-hour the guy called me to come back. Death & Co. is all about quality cocktails; asking for wine or a beer is silly. Because it was like 20 degrees outside, I ordered a hot buttered rum. The bar is cool but small, so unfortunately the door staff is needed to control the crowds to enable the bartenders to work their magic. Definitely worth a repeat visit. The door guys were very gracious, though I don't know how often I will have the patience to deal with a possible wait to get in.

Long weekend

God forbid I do something sensible over the 3-day weekend, like unpack. Had drinks Friday with Charles & Howard at Lotus Lounge and Barramundi. Saw The Good Shepherd with Shani, Ab & Rick Sat. Had dinner at the new Satsko with Gail on Sunday. (Yes, Satsko has finally opened the 2nd place on the Lower East Side. It looks great! Double the Satskos, double the fun. Satsko, Warren & Veronica were all there.) Office was closed Monday, so I met Jen for a late lunch at Yaffa Café and bought a purse from Elaine.

In case you're wondering

My first day back in the office last week, my group had a party in a penthouse to celebrate our 2006 successes and to set the tone for 2007. People outside the industry often ask me what advertising parties are like. Well, I suppose I could describe a finance person shotgunning a beer or a strategic planner dancing like she belonged on top of the bar at Coyote Ugly. However I think this photo speaks volumes:

Me circa 8 pm.

Jan. 8 - What's doing in the Middle East

Clara, Enda, Rick & I are up early and off to Dubai. Bonus: the airline has arranged hotel rooms for us because we have such a long lay-over. After we drop our bags, we’re able to explore.

Dubai is absolutely fascinating. It’s a complete mash-up of Western and Arabic cultures. You see a woman in a burqa carrying a drink from McDonald’s and a man in the traditional traditional kandura and guthra listening to an iPod.


Arabs like Frappuccinos too.

Western stores like IKEA and Ace Hardware are here, and their signage also carries the Arabic interpretation of the logos. I’m loving all of the graphic treatments.

Big Mac attack.

This city has insane amounts of wealth. Most hotel rooms start at around $700/night. One property is offering a Jaguar as a signing bonus to people who buy an apartment in the building.

Since we don’t have a ton of time in the city, we select the Madinat Jumeirah as our destination. This is a sprawling hotel resort designed to look like an ancient Arabian citadel. The various parts of the resort are connected via waterways. So if you need to get from your room to a restaurant, you go from place to place on little water taxis. This hotel has a shopping area designed to look like a traditional souk, and also has many restaurants & bars.

Overview of the Madinat Jumeriah, with the Burj in the background.

I’d heard people describe Dubai as the “Vegas of the Middle East.” I hate Las Vegas. Trust me, Dubai is no Vegas. Yes, everything in Dubai is opulent and completely over-the-top, but somehow still luxurious, elegant and tasteful.

NYC prides itself on being the center of the universe, so it is interesting to be in a place that’s competing for dominance/coolness (and kinda winning): Dubai has the world’s tallest hotel and the only indoor ski resort in the desert. Dubai is also considered to be the largest construction zone in the world; so many buildings are going up right now it’s unbelievable.

It’s a shame we don’t have just a little more time in Dubai. At the risk of sounding totally cheesy, we feel like we’ve seen the future.

Jan. 7 - Last night in Sri Lanka

It’s overcast, which makes us less sad about leaving Kandalama and spending 5 hours on the bus. We arrive back in Colombo at sunset. For a change of pace, we’re staying at the Taj Samudra tonight. But we walk over to the Galle Face to say our final goodbyes to the staff.

Our favorite desk guy at the Galle Face.

Then we walk down to the Cinnamon Grand to have dinner at one of their restaurants, the Lagoon. You go inside and peruse all the fresh catches of the day, make your pick, and then decide how you’d like your seafood to be prepared.

Atrium of the Cinnamon Grand.


So many choices for dinner.

Jan. 6 – Riding elephants makes me thirsty

Have a very lazy morning. Wander to the spa. Like the rest of the hotel, the views here are great. Have some lemongrass tea in the lounge, take a sauna and get a back massage.

Rick and I go for an elephant ride in the afternoon. Our elephant is 26 years old & is almost 10 feet tall. Despite the elephant’s large size, its slow, deliberate movements are graceful in their own way. It takes us through water and along a wooded path. Rick & I both have a chance to “drive” – i.e. ride on the neck.



View from the elephant.

On the 2nd day here, someone ordered a Singapore Sling. It was so damn refreshing, it’s pretty much all our crowd has been drinking since, with the exception of wine during dinner. So after the elephant adventure, Rick & I go back to the hotel and order a round of Singapore Slings. The waiter informs us that they can’t make any more of our favorite drinks because we’ve depleted the hotel's entire supply of cherry brandy. Oops.

RIP Singapore Sling.


Beautiful Kandalama sunset.

Jan. 5 – Sri Lankan StairMaster

We wake up at sunrise for an excursion. Clara opens the sliding glass door to the balcony for some fresh air, and a few minutes later a monkey comes in the room. A lot to cope with before having a cup of coffee.

Um, there's a monkey on my balcony.

After chasing the monkey out of the hotel room, we’re off to Sirigiya, a rock fortress sometimes referred to as the 8th wonder of the world.


Yeah, we climbed this.

When we arrive at the gates, scores of men crowd the bus wanting to be our “guide”; fortunately Lal helps fend them off. It takes us about 45 min. to climb the rock, and we spend another 45 min. at the top. It’s kind of a hazy day, but we can still see a lot. Although I didn’t want to wake up so early, it was the smart thing to do – as we’re leaving, the stairs are starting to get jammed with tourists and it’s also getting hot.

Rick at the edge of the world.

We stop at a bank in Dambulla on the way back to the hotel. The ATM room only holds one person; Eavan is inside getting cash; Clara & Rick are waiting outside; the rest of us are sitting on the bus. Suddenly, 4 guys buzz up on 2 motorcycles. They’re dressed in camoflauge and carrying machine guns. They’re wearing mirrored sunglasses and have black cloths over their faces (probably just to keep dust out of their nose & mouth, but it gives the menacing appearance of a face mask). One guy hops off and approaches the ATM. As soon as Eavan comes out, he goes in (Clara & Rick let him cut ahead, even NYers defer to machine guns). As soon as the guy gets cash, the group leaves. So nothing really happens, though it was a really intimidating scene - by far the scariest thing to happen on the entire trip. Even Lal seemed a little freaked out. When I describe the guys to Shani later, she thinks they’re Tamil Tigers.

Jan. 4 - Adjusting to nature

The hotel and its views are even more stunning during the daytime. It’s so quiet and peaceful here; literally all you can hear is the wind in the trees, birds and the occasional frog.


The infinity pool.

After some time by the pool, we take a short drive in the afternoon to check out the Dambulla cave temples. There are 5 separate caves, containing many Buddha statues and frescoes. I find the large reclining Buddhas to be the most impressive (they’re about 50 feet long).

Entrance to the cave temples.

The cave temples are at the top of a hill. At the base of the hill is the world’s largest Buddha. The gold statue is pretty gaudy; it seems like it belongs in a Chinatown vs. alongside 1st century BC temples.

Now that's a big Buddha.

Back at the hotel, we start what becomes our Kandalama evening routine (drinks on the terrace followed by dinner outside under the stars). After dinner, some of the guys play snooker in the lounge.

Fighting for Berger pride at the snooker table.

Jan. 3 - Moving on

In a brave move, Shani’s driver Lal agrees to chaperone us on our next adventure. He & another driver show up at the Galle Face in a party bus to take 15 of us to Sri Lanka’s “Cultural Triangle” in the center of the country. We leave around 2:30 pm for the 4+ hour drive.


Whoop whoop: the party bus.

Along the way, we stop in a village to buy cashews at a road-side stand. We also take a break at a traditional Sri Lankan rest stop, which is actually a really charming restaurant with a little gift shop and restrooms. Not at all like service stations in the U.S. where you want to do your thing & leave as quickly as possible.

Sri Lanka is such a lush country, even Colombo is rather lush. Everywhere you look, there are palm trees, flowers, plants, shrubs, vines and vegetation. I’m very inspired by all the green on this trip.


Palm trees galore.

This part of Sri Lanka looks very much like rural Bulloch Co. (where I grew up). There are country homes, fields of crops, roadside stands where fruit and Coca-Colas are sold, and even red dirt. Some subtle differences, though, like mailboxes made out of woven reeds.

We arrive at Kandalama at dusk. It’s an eco-hotel built into the face of a rock, designed by the renowned Sri Lankan architect Geoffrey Bawa. Much of the hotel is open-air; bats are flying around the lobby when we check in. A man is playing the lute on the outside terrace, so we hang out there for a while and enjoy the beautiful full moon. Poya (the first night of the full moon) is considered a religious holiday in Sri Lanka. No alcohol can be sold/served, so fruit juice is the stiffest drink we’ll be getting tonight. Everyone’s pretty knackered from the wedding and the drive, so we have a quick dinner and turn in by 10 pm.

Jan. 2 - The big day

Sugith calls to wish us a happy new year & see what we’re up to.

After running some errands in the morning, we spend the whole afternoon getting ready for the wedding. The hair & make-up woman arrives around noon with a fleet of helpers. They also get us dressed. It takes over 30 minutes for one guy to wrap and pin the sari fabric into place on me (it seems like it would be simple, but don’t try this one at home!) The photographer takes a few group shots of the entire bridal party and then it’s time to get started.

Michael & Shani have a traditional Buddhist wedding ceremony. The altar where the ceremony takes place is a wooden platform called the poruwa. Shani’s cousin Heron is an architect, and he designed the poruwa for this ceremony.

The poruwa.

A troupe of dancers announces the groom’s arrival with great fanfare – back flips, much pounding of drums and blowing of conch shells.

Working the conch shell.

Shani’s dad walks her down the aisle, followed by all the bridesmaids. Shani & Michael step onto the poruwa at an auspicious time (in this case it was 5:31 pm).

Shani looking lovely.

A holy man performs the ceremony, chanting in Sanskrit and Sinhala. In a major deviation tradition, Shani’s family friend Avanti translates at key moments so the Western guests know what’s happening & the significance.

The ceremony lasts about 45 minutes. It’s followed by cocktail hour on the lawn, where a group of women dancers perform two dances. Then there’s a sit-down dinner in the hotel’s Grand Ballroom. Shani’s dad and Michael give speeches, a string quartet plays, and Avanti sings some jazz standards. Dessert is served out on the verandah, while a group of male fire dancers perform. Apologies for not having pictures of the special dancers & the ballroom. It was all very visually stimulating, but my sari didn’t have a pocket for a camera.

All this is followed by lots of dancing out on the lawn (where the New Year’s Eve party was 2 nights before). The DJ plays 70s/80s hits like “Dancing Queen,” “Copacabana,” and “I’m So Excited.” The reception ends around midnight. Some people continue on to a nightclub, but I’m too exhausted after wearing a sari and heels all day.


Me in the sari.


Shani's mom.

Jan. 1 - Taking it easy

Sleep in due to the late night. Feel OK. Because of the chaotic club scene on the lawn, I wanted to keep my wits about me, so I stopped drinking pretty early on. We have lunch & tea, followed by a walk-through for the wedding. Fun dinner at 1864 in the hotel. I try on my sari top again; thankfully it fits this time.

Dec. 31 - Happy New Year

At this point in the trip, I don’t know what day it is, much less realize that it’s New Year’s Eve. After breakfast, we go shopping at Odel. I buy some T-shirts and tchotchkes for people in the office.

After shopping, I need to take a tuk-tuk back to the hotel by myself. Fortunately I know how much the ride should cost, because the driver initially asks for 4x that amount. Annoying. After a lot of arguing, he finally agrees to a reasonable price. Drivers in Colombo are proving to be more greedy than the folks at the beach, especially when dealing with white tourists.

We have what is supposed to be the final fitting for the bridesmaids’ saris. Slight catastrophe: the tailor made 5 of the 6 girls’ tops too tight (mine included), and they will need further alterations. Shani’s mom is not pleased.

The largest New Year’s Eve party in Colombo is on the lawn of our hotel. Because the hotel has bungled so many of our group’s reservations, they give us a room overlooking the lawn for a pre-party. We go to the actual party after 11 pm.

Before the craziness.

There’s plenty of security. Tickets are exchanged for wristbands to gain entry. All the guys are frisked before being allowed in. There are about 50 men on the premises who are the Sri Lankan equivalent of the National Guard.

Our table is right by the ocean. The party is huge, easily 1,500 people. Fireworks go off at midnight, and breakfast is served around 3 am. We call it a night at 4:30, but the party is still going strong. It stops sometime after dawn.




We knew about the party & had purchased tickets in advance. However, I feel a little sorry for hotel guests who may not have been aware. When we get back to our room after the party, we find a hilarious, unapologetic note from the hotel manager under the door: “Please be advised that due to the year-end function at the hotel, you will experience noise from music. Since the hotel is in party mode, we invite you to join us to bid farewell to 2006 and welcome 2007. Should the event cause you inconvenience, please bear with us.”