Grüße von Wien

Guten Tag, dear readers. We arrived in Vienna this morning for the TV shoot. Home for the next two weeks will be the Levante Parliament Hotel, a design hotel which seems pretty cool so far.

What the hotel rooms look like. Yes, there are orange accents everywhere.

My recent international travels have taken me to Sri Lanka and Colombia, places where I stood out because of my physical appearance. But in Sri Lanka everyone spoke English, and in Colombia, everyone spoke Spanish (but I got by with my basic French and Sesame Street Spanish). Ironically, I’m now in a place now where I look like the locals, but unfortunately I only know 4 German words/phrases. German is very intimidating, no Romance language derivatives for me to work with! So it should be an interesting couple of weeks.

Today at lunch I enjoyed the first of what will surely be many schnitzel on this trip and was able to order a couple of grosser brauner (big coffees with milk) to combat jet lag. For dinner we had a great crepe with mozzarella, ham & basil as an appetizer. I ate an entrée special - chicken with a rich mushroom crème sauce (got this dish by chatting up the waiter, definitely not by navigating the menu). And of course, wiesbier.

I had a little free time this afternoon so Nicole and I walked around, did some shopping and visited Votivkirche, one of Vienna’s big cathedrals. The locals we encountered today were fairly friendly. Good, since we needed a lot of help finding our way back to the hotel. Even with map(s), Vienna seems challenging to navigate. Really hoping this improves as we spend more time in the city.

Ad fodder

This short film, created by Ogilvy Toronto, won an unprecedented two Grand Prix awards this week at Cannes. It started as a viral piece so it's only fitting that I blog about it. Powerful work, especially since stuff like this happens every day. The scariest thing I think I've seen thus far in advertising was a magazine cover shot of Melanie Griffith (before and after retouching).

Summer means more sake

Kyotofu held another seasonal sake tasting Monday night. I think we freak the waitstaff out by how much sake we can drink! Yummy food pairings (the cucumber sliders were a big hit).


Kazu, the sakemaster, moves in for the kill.


Another satisfied customer!

Mermaids on parade

Went to Coney Island Sat. to check out the 25th annual Mermaid Parade. It's sort of like a crustacean-themed Mardi Gras. Sorry to keep reusing a phrase here but I've always wanted to go to the Mermaid Parade but have never gotten around to it.

Also much of central Coney Island was recently purchased by a developer, so this summer could very well be the last for Coney Island as we know and love it.

We rode lots of rides. That's the thrilling thing about Coney Island... Rides like the Wonder Wheel were built in 1920 (ie they’re old and rickety), so death seems like a very real possibility.

A fun float.


A marching band.


Crowds line the boardwalk to watch the parade (view from the top of the Wonder Wheel).

Easing into Pride

This past weekend was Gay Pride. Charles hosted a cocktail party at his apt. Fri night to "ease into Pride." It was a blast. But if that was an example of how one gently eases into a weekend, I'd hate to be part of a full-force celebration.

Charles raises the roof.


I wonder why everyone gravitates towards Charles' bed?

Bryan flies solo again

Bryan played the Living Room last night. I love seeing him perform when he's in town. I go to his shows when it's raining/sleeting/snowing even if I'm busy/tired/hungover because he sings his heart out, and it's always a good time. During last night’s set he played old faves like “Karmacide,” new songs, a Police cover… and Enormous D joined him onstage for a song.

Being a tourist in NY

Saw The Valet with Robyn on Sunday, then hung out with Nora & her friend Brace. We hit a street fair in Midtown and also walked through Rockefeller Center. Then we began a liquid tour of Hell’s Kitchen with margaritas at New World Grill, wine at Riposo46, and more wine with dinner at Puttanesca.

Crowds on 6th Avenue at the street fair.


What’s happening, Prometheus?

Arabian Nights

Nora is in town for business; she flew in Saturday. We had dinner at Esperanto and then went to Rick’s birthday party. This year’s theme was “Arabian (K)nights.” Was a good time, but there were fewer antics than at previous parties, so I don’t really have anything scandalous to report.

Rick & Mark rock the turbans.


Nora & I wore sassy saris & big-ass earrings.

Another example of how working at an ad agency is different from working at an investment bank

In a bold leadership move, the Group Creative Director emailed my team a monologue delivered by Patrick Swayze’s character in the movie “Road House” as advice and encouragement to help us through the heavy production that lies ahead in the coming month(s).

Here's the quote:
“All you have to do is follow three simple rules. One, never underestimate your opponent. Expect the unexpected. Two, take it outside. Never start anything inside the bar unless it's absolutely necessary. And three, be nice. If somebody gets in your face and calls you a cocksucker, I want you to be nice. Ask him to walk. Be nice. If he won't walk, walk him. But be nice. If you can't walk him, one of the others will help you, and you'll both be nice. I want you to remember that it's a job. It's nothing personal. I want you to be nice until it's time to not be nice.”

Sadly, this was both relevant and appropriate.

Yee ha

Gail picked Hill Country, a brand-spankin' new BBQ joint, for Dining Out Group last night.

The positives: Enjoyed nice margaritas - served with jalapenos inside - at the bar. We ordered beef ribs and brisket. The BBQ was really tasty and well-prepared, but so different from my beloved Vandy's that it's hard to compare the two. (This is actually a good thing, since nothing will probably ever win in a head-to-head with Vandy's.) The green bean casserole as a side order was incredibly bad-ass; I must admit it could totally hold its own against something baked by a South Georgia grandma. Mac & cheese was good, but the noodles were penne(?!) . The staff was friendly and fairly knowledgeable, but when pressed, everyone admitted they're from NYC. (Haha.) Some beautiful black and white photography of the Texas Hill Country lines the walls.

The negatives: Sweet tea was pitiful, but I had low expectations in this arena anyway. Lamest thing by far was that you need to find your own table vs. being seated, and there are no plates: you eat the meat off of brown butcher paper and the sides out of styrofoam containers. This is especially awkward when you're sharing food with others (which I was doing). I'm all for being rustic when you're eating at a picnic table in the country, but when you're in a NYC restaurant paying Manhattan prices everyone deserves a fucking plate.

Validation of the Cheese: Cheese was listed as a side on the menu, so I asked the bartender Alex what she knew about this. She verified cheese as a Texas BBQ tradition (apparently the restaurant employed some serious pitmasters as consultants prior to opening, and they had explained the cheese phenomenon to her during training).

Further Texas cred: Heybale performed last weekend as part of the grand opening festivities (this was a fun country band I saw the last time I was in Austin).

Weird miscellaneous minor celeb highlights

• How’s Darlene? Saw Johnny Galecki from "Roseanne" twice in the past week: In Worldwide Plaza last Tuesday afternoon and again Sunday morning on East 13th St.
• Are they Rockdale or Heritage guys? On Tuesday night the band Cartel (from Conyers, GA!?) broke out of the "bubble" they've been housed in for the past 20 days on Pier 54 on West 14th St.
• Is Rob Lowe a good kisser? Spotted Mare Winningham on West 25th St. Wed. night.

Get your rib on

Went to the Big Apple BBQ in Madison Square Park Sunday with Rick. This is the event's 5th year. 13 "pitmasters" from around the country come to share their stuff, and there is live music. We got beef brisket and sausage from Southside Market's stand. It was served with bread, pickles, onions, and a big wedge of cheddar-like cheese on the side. When I asked the server why there was cheese, she looked at me like I was an idiot and said, "Because cheese just goes with BBQ. It's like a condiment." And she added they'd brought the cheese with them from Texas. I felt better because Rick had no idea what the cheese was for either (and he's from Austin). Was not expecting to such long lines of people waiting to get BBQ. Each restaurant had little ropes in front of their stand, kind of like a velvet-rope situation at a club or actually, more like the line for security screening at an airport.

NYers queue for their 'cue.


A gigantic pot of Brunswick stew. Intense!


Texas Pete BBQ sauce handed out hats with pig ears.

Giddy up

Charles & I went to the Belmont Stakes Saturday. Another thing I've always talked about doing, but this was the first time I've actually gotten around to it. The park is only a 30 minute train ride from Penn Station on the Long Island Rail Road; admission is $5. Belmont has a huge track – 1 ½ miles long (the tracks for the other Triple Crown races are a lot shorter). There are actually 13 horse races during the day, and the Stakes is race #11. We arrived around 4:30 pm, and watched our first race from grass. But then we moved closer to the finish line for the next 2 races. I was really surprised we could get right up to the fence beside the track. There was only one row of people standing in front of us; we were so close to the track. I bet on imawildandcrazyguy, who did not place. But Charles bet on the winner Rags to Riches, so he won more than 5x his bet. This was also the first female horse to win the Stakes in 102 years. We were back in NYC by 7:30 pm.

Action during the 9th race.


Rags to Riches #7 and Curlin (this year’s Preakness winner) during their warm-up walk before the race. We were this close to track!


46,000 people on their feet.

My life doesn't suck

Fortunately great outdoor bars like the Boat Basin exist, because my clients have been driving me to drink lately. Met up with Maria there Thursday for refreshing margaritas, and suddenly work wasn't so top-of-mind.

View of New Jersey across the Hudson River.


Crazy, tall Maria (yes, she's almost a foot taller than me!)

What light through yonder window breaks?

Garet got tickets to Wednesday's opening night performance of Shakespeare in the Park. The first play of this season is Romeo and Juliet. This was my first Shakespeare in the Park experience. Tickets are free, but you have to stand in line for hours to get them.

First, it is so ridiculous to watch a play being performed on a stage that has Central Park's Belvedere Castle and Turtle Pond as a back-drop. You can see some of the Midtown high-rises and Upper East Side apartment buildings in the distance as well. It is nice to know NYC can still be amaze me (in a good way) after 12+ years!

Second, the production was actually pretty entertaining. Lauren Ambrose played Juliet; she gave a very passionate performance. Camryn Manheim was Juliet's nurse; she brought a lot of spirit to the role.

Current set for Shakespeare in the Park.

Kicking off summer in the city

Up til last night, it has been unseasonably warm in NYC since I got back from Colombia, and that has been wonderful! So nice to be outside without a jacket. Went to Central Park Saturday with Duck, then met his cousin Nicole for late brunch/early margaritas at Dos Caminos Soho.

Conservatory Gardens at 105th St. & Fifth Ave.


Seeking the shade.


Upper West Side apt. buildings across the Reservoir.

Robyn and Paul hosted a brunch Sunday at their newly remodeled apt. on the Upper West Side, complete with yummy challah French toast and bellinis. Later that afternoon I went to a performance of Neil LaBute's "In a Dark Dark House." The play is still in previews; it doesn't officially open til Thursday (which may explain why my seat was in the 5th row). This was the 3rd LaBute play I've seen. And it was true to his usual form: disturbing themes, dark humor, and characters that appear to be normal but are actually troubled and fairly demented. Starred Ron Livingston and Frederick Weller. I've seen Weller before in the play "The Shape of Things". Originally Jason Patric was supposed to play this role, and I suspect he would have brought a different edge to the production. Though this was a decent way to spend a Sunday afternoon.

High rollers

JH moved back from Portland. I guess being away from his native NYC for a couple of years gave him a new perspective on the city, so he has a list of all this stuff he's never done before but now wants to do, like having drinks at the Pen-Top bar on the roof of the Peninsula Hotel in Midtown. So we went there for happy hour Thursday. The views of Central Park are great, but one must ask, "Is it truly a happy hour when the average drink price is $20?"

For a change of pace, we went to Jameson's afterwards for pints and snacks. And stopped by Otto's Shrunken Head Tiki Bar by my apt. for more drinks and live music, which included a New Orleans-style band... comprised of a bunch of guys from New Jersey! (I discovered this when I attempted to make a Southern connection with them at the bar after their set.)

The money shot: view of Central Park up Fifth Ave.


Hoobastank & Diana.


Me & Soto.

Cartagena: Final thoughts/assessment

Old Town Cartagena reminded me of Barrio Santa Cruz in Sevilla, Spain. I suppose the closest thing in the US would be the quiet, residential part of New Orleans’ French Quarter. It’s nice in the daytime because you can better see the architectural details and also sneak peeks into interior gardens/courtyards. But at night, it’s visually enchanting.

Like Sri Lanka, I was seemingly the whitest person in Colombia. If the folks noticed how fair my skin is (and I’m sure they must have), they didn’t register it at all. Unlike Sri Lanka, no one stared at me during the trip.

The attitude of the locals was polite but not too friendly, and the service was not doting. Everything was very matter-of-fact. Nothing bad or outwardly hostile, but we didn’t make real emotional connections when we were speaking with locals. Also, very, very few people speak English, so brush up on your Espanol before traveling to Colombia.

The weather was greyer and rainier than I would've liked (I think the dry season ended in April). However, it was very hot and very humid the entire time, which was what I was really after. Actually if it had been full-on sun with that much humidity, we probably wouldn’t have spent as much time walking around exploring the city. So it all worked out in the end.

We encountered only a handful of Americans during our week in Cartagena, and practically all of the “gringos” we met were European or Australian backpackers. So Colombia’s reputation and international perception is still suffering from drug-related violence of the 1980s and early 1990s. While the city is a tourist destination, the tourists are overwhelmingly from other parts of Colombia and South America.

There was some visible security (guards with machine guns) on major roads/highways. Otherwise just the occasional policemen, more were out in the busy tourist squares during the day on Saturday.

Cartagena seemed a lot cleaner & safer than NYC's East Village, and I recommend it to folks who want to travel to a place that is not yet over-run with Americans.

Day 7 Tuesday pm – Back to the beach

It was like 55 degrees on the plane, so I didn’t sleep at all. But when we land in Miami, I feel surprisingly OK – good even – especially for not having slept in something like 30 hours.

Check into the Greenview and go directly to the beach. It’s sunny and in the 80s. Have dinner at Sushi Samba Dromo on Lincoln Road and drinks at the Setai. I love South Beach and am really happy to visit, even just for a little while.

Lifeguard stand near 17th Street.


Yes, beaches like this one exist in the United States.


An old fave: the Delano.

Day 7 Tuesday am – Oh my

Our flight to Miami is scheduled to leave at 9:15 am, so technically you should be at the airport around 6:15 am to start the check-in process. One person might take this information and say, “Wow, I should have a quiet night in because of my early flight.” And another person might say, “Let’s stay out til the clubs close, walk to a gas station, buy beer at its mini-mart, and drink on the beach til it’s time to go to the airport.” I chose the latter.

Day 6 Monday - Going out with a bang

The beaches in Cartagena are pretty sad, but it was nice to sleep with the windows open and hear the waves lapping on the shore.

Get breakfast near the Hilton and hang out by the pool. Lunch at the cheap local joint in Old Town. Pizza for dinner at Pazza Luna.

We hung out with two Irish sisters, Aoife and Neasa, on the boat Sunday, so we meet them for a drink at Che bar, and keep going to Via Apia and carry on for dancing at Tu Candela. At the club, a guy from St. Simons Island, GA (of all places!) is there with one of his college friends from UPenn.

Brian "shags" the night away (The Shag is a Southern dance, for my dirty-minded readers).

Day 5 Sunday – Hit the beach

The alarm is set for 7 am in the hopes that it will be sunny… and it is! We walk to the marina and catch a boat to the Islas del Rosario, a group of 27 islands about an hour and a half away by water from Cartagena. The boat ride is great. The sea is calm, and it’s such a beautiful day.

We stop at Playa Blanca for a couple of hours, which is a fairly rustic beach. It would have been relaxing, except for the uber-aggressive vendors. It’s hard to chill out when your palapa is surrounded by multiple people offering you necklaces, sunglasses, wood carvings, etc. At one point I actually had to get up out of my chair and walk away from this woman who was trying to give me a massage.

Playa Blanca.


Lunch (whole fish that's been flash-fried, rice, and fried plantains).

Back in the city, we switch hotels, moving to the Hilton in Bocagrande. It’s a big room with a view of the bay and the pools.

We have paella for dinner at a Spanish restaurant El Burlador de Sevilla, and a drink at the Che bar, but that’s about it; we’re pretty knackered from walking up early & being in the sun all day.

Day 4 Saturday – Time to be (somewhat) mellow

Wake up around 10 am. It’s still raining. Eat breakfast, and go back to bed. It rains til about 1:30 pm. We eat lunch at a local joint by the hotel. This time soup, salad, main course and coffee are about $2 per person. We wander around the city more, and I sleep some more. It’s a good day to be tired and hung-over.

Have dinner at El Santisimo. This is a really lovely restaurant, and it’s décor and menu have not-so-subtle nods to religion, ie the desserts on the menu are named after the 7 deadly sins. Great food, with nice presentation. Dinner for 2 was about $80, with a appetizers, entrées, dessert, coffee and a bottle of wine. Expensive compared to lunch, but this was probably the best fancy meal we had.

While we’re walking around Old Town later, this guy approaches us, invites us to a nightclub, and then he says that he has “everything you need.” Presumably he wasn’t referring to umbrellas and flashlights. Basically this is the first and only time we’re offered drugs.

We wind up at a small club called Quemada; they have a Cuban band and a solo male singer. Then we’re trying to find a German bar, and we do come across a beer garden but it’s blaring salsa music and is fairly heinous. The bar we’re looking for is actually next door and it’s a much better scene.

One of the cathedrals in Old Town.


Fountain in Plaza de Bolivar.